Photo: BRIAN BIELMANN/AFP via Getty
Popular big wave surferKohl Christensensuffered a life-threatening injury while surfing in Hawaii last week, and he believes the terrifying incident is now allowing him to see “the world clearer than ever.”
Christensen was surfing on December 31 when his wave spread out too far and came barreling down on top of him, according toSurferMagazine. The father of two was knocked unconscious during the wipeout.
North Shore Lifeguard Associationimmediately rushed to the area and pulled Christensen back to shore, and he was then taken to a local hospital where he underwent emergency surgery.
“Kohl was swiftly rescued and given the best care possible,” Goepel wrote on January 2. “After successful brain surgery, he’s exceeding all expectations and we’re hoping for a speedy recovery. We are eternally grateful for his surgical team at Queens.”
“At this time, Kohl needs to rest and heal. Please send him and his family positive thoughts and good energy as he embarks in a strong recovery,” he continued.
On Sunday, Christensen posted a family portrait to social media and reflected on the scary ordeal that almost cost him his life.
https://www.instagram.com/p/B69FvxLnOXi/
“Now, seeing my daughter’s smiles, laughter and subtle movements. Different than a week ago,” Christensen said in the post. “They change so quickly at this age. Hearing my wife’s voice and watching her gentle movements around our home, our dog’s love and that morning light warm the pictures on the walls. Family, friends. Wow.”
He added: “The prayers and love that flooded in the day of the accident and continue to come are the reason I am still here. Thank you. My reflection on all of this begins.”
According toSurferMagazine, Christensen is the co-founder ofBig Wave Risk Assessment Group, an organization that teaches safety protocols to surfers. The outlet says the group’s lessons likely helped to save the lives of Christensen and other surfers who have experienced similar head injuries at the location over recent years.
source: people.com
